Bordeaux Au Printemps
Sunday, May 13th, 2012Helen and myself after much Bordelaise bidding decided to take a springtime trip to Bordeaux to see an old friend and the hutch he lives in. Our flight was booked on Sunday out of Dublin and has Ianrod Eireann only do reduced journeys of a Sabbath we travelled up to Dublin on the Saturday. A pleasant journey with my free travel pass granted to all who have lived for sufficient years. It did entail a 35 minute delay at Mostrim or Edgeworthstown, as it is known today, because of a train failure in the Mullingar region. It was no discomfort for the new trains are so comfortable and I had my Kindle at hand.
Disembarked at Connolly Station we took a short walk down to the Abbey Theatre to meet our daughter, Paddy, at her place of work. Although we had been before, I am always struck by the friendliness of the staff and how helpful they always are. You do not meet this sincerity often in corporative life but these young people from the lad selling programmes at the door, to the young girl in the cloak room and the staff at the bar, welcomed us and directed us in such a pleasant fashion that it took my breath away. So well done management for picking and training a decent bunch of youngsters in the fine art of front of house. I will be back again for Tom Murphy’s play The House in June and O’Casey’s masterpiece The Plough and the Stars at its revised location at the Belvedere in the Summer.
The three of us decided to eat at a Moroccan restaurant, Dada’s, on South William Street. I would recommend it to everyone, especially the Merguez sausages, the salads, the Tagines and the Argentinian Malbec which we consumed in more than sufficient quantity. Then off to Paddy’s abode by the Grand Canal, to chew the cud and where we tucked into more vino, Sangria de Toro from the house of Torres in Spain, a most economic and lovely wine at 7 euro per bottle. Who said it was expensive in Dublin.
Next morning, Sunday, we were up at sparrow fart and away to the airport giving ourselves plenty of time in case of delay. However the journey went like clockwork through deserted Dublin. No sooner had we reached the Luas stop at the top of Harcourt Street then a tram came along to whisk us into Stephen’s Green. A short walk across to Dawson Street to pick up the airport bus escorted by a friendly man who was in charge of the tourist horses and carriages. 30 seconds later a bright and breezy young taxi driver seizing his opportunity stopped and said he would carry us to the airport for the same price as the bus, 7 euro each. Helen and I jumped in followed by two Californian girls who had just finished doing Europe in three days and could not believe their luck. They remained dumbstruck for the entire journey.
Thus we were at the airport 30 minutes after leaving Paddy and leaving us well over two hours to wait for our plane. However a full Irish breakfast and people watching soon passed the time. On journeys I love waiting and watching and I hate being just on time and rushing. We had booked to travel by Aer Lingus and I do not know what it is about this airline, they are as cheap as Ryanair but they seem to retain the old world gentility and friendliness that is sadly lacking in its rival airline. One hour and thirty minutes later we were 10 degrees warmer in Bordeaux, an airport similar to Knock but with two terminals and more runway and apron. We were in Terminal A which is very quiet traffic wise and we were soon outside in the sun looking out for my friend Monsieur R and then I saw a flash of blue in the distance. It was half time in the Manchester City game against Newcastle which more or less determined the Premier League for them, R had dashed out on the referee’s whistle and hurtled down the road from his pad in St Jean d’Illac, a mile or so from the airport.
We darted back so that no football would be lost by mine host who was in such a state of nervousness he could not watch but remained in earshot. He had deposited us outside this sprawling mansion, I was looking round for the gardeners cottage but this was the only residence. He said it was his, so I had to believe him. The house was modern, with an extensive open plan layout. You could have a decent 5-a-side foot ball match in the kitchen with room to park a few spectators cars. The living room could seat 30 people and still leave room for dancing. A short walk along a glazed corridor to bedrooms and the obligatory indoor swimming pool, sauna and spa, all superfluously heated to withstand the permanent tropical temperature of Bordeaux. Up the open plan staircase which was a feature of the living space past the dazzling chandelier to a full sized snooker table, bar and relaxing sofas. This arena led off to further bedrooms and bathroom. Only one word sums it all up, palatial. Two years R and Madame P spent designing it themselves, they then found a portugoose builder who spent 15 months building it.
The kitchen was a gem and the food better. He had a couple of hens that looked more like feather dusters patrolling the back of the house and they supplemented the plentiful supply of eggs. Our first feed was ouefs mimosa ( boiled eggs sliced in half with a topping of crab meat, mayonnaise, paprika and pepper), simple but lovely. The main course was magret with cooked apples and figs washed down with local illicit plonk from the over-producing excellent local vineyards. A local bonus for local people which I think is well deserved. An early night followed after the journey and the excesses of the previous night in Dublin but not before we had welcomed in France’s new president, Monsieur Hollande, who had just beaten the previous pantomime dwarf Monsieur Sarkozy by 4% of the vote. I suppose a close run thing and not really welcomed around St Jean d’Illac.
I was up early at 5.00am and sat in front of the ever present computer screen and answered my overnight e-mails and made notes for this scruffy little piece. Shortly Madame P arises and within no time sticks a welcoming cafe creme in front of me. The day has started. Madame P runs a music school in St Jean which she started 20 years previously and works a tremendous amount of hours. It shows you what the community think, with a population of 6500 people the school have 700 pupils of all ages. We breakfasted on eggs, ham, left over magret, home made bread and fig compote before she left for work. Monsieur R and Helen slept fashionably late but they eventually arose to a grim permanently sunny morning with a temperature at 9.ooam, a balmy 20C. and it eventually peaking in mid-afternoon at 26C.
A quiet day is planned while Dublin wears off, not the wonders of historic Bordeaux and the recent extensive works along the River Garonne, we have seen it all before and we are not an inquisitive couple. We spent the morning pottering about, I made a visit to the boulanger and returned with pain et canneles. Cannele is a Bordeaux speciality, little almost cone shaped cakes made with flour and butter and honey. Here they make them by the thousand every day and they are delicious. Within a short time we prepared lunch. Smoked salmon, ham, tomatoes of strange shape and variety and the rest of the magret, nothing is wasted here. In the afternoon we took a short trip out to Andernos on the northern shore of the Bassin D’Arcachon. It is a little resort town at one time famous for its oysters and now just at the start of its busy season.
We returned to the mansion at 4.00pm for a well earned siesta before settling in to a couple of aperos around 7.00am whilst waiting for Madame P to return from her work. As we wait for her return I look around the house and notice the flaw. There is no central heating, no radiators. “How can you make such a basic error”, I said. “Because we don’t need it” was the reply. However after further investigation I did discover that there was an under floor heating system, that they do switch on for a month round Christmas.
That evening off we went to Madame’s sister’s house in Cestas to the south of Bordeaux, for more aperos and the biggest homemade pizzas I have ever seen, washed down by a very palatable local wine. The sister’s boyfriend was Monsieur Chef and while I was on pastis, the chef and R were guzzling whiskey as though it was going out of fashion. It is amazing how popular whiskey is over here, most men I met on this trip drank it before and after meals. Monsieur Chef made the pastry bases in between slurps, which he covered with a tomato and basilique sauce, then lashings of mozzarella and parmigiano cheese and ham and then dropped two eggs into the middle of each one and then into the oven. Impossible to finish so into a doggy bag for tomorrow’s breakfast. We returned home at 12.45am to an alcoholic night cap and then to bed.
Day 2 in Bordeaux was a Bank Holiday, we all slept in. Madame P was out for 10.00am because they have had so many Bank Holidays recently The Music School had to open in order to catch up. We are off to a local 7-aside football competition where we will have lunch and a few aperos before watching Jeremy and his mates take on other local teams. Jeremy is Madame P’s son from a previous arrangement, a very nice well mannered young man with mates the same and they all think Ireland is the best country in the world. I have got to say that the ordinary French person has no liking at all for England and its people but they think the sun shines out of the Irish man and woman’s arse
As soon as we arrived at the Stade and on a wink from Monsieur R, a plastic cup brimming with whiskey was put into my hand and a big lump of bellypork squashed between two halves of a baguette pushed into my face. Basic but very, very tasty. We then sat down because it was half time in the competition and our team lunched on pastis and pork filled baguettes, just the foundation to a hard afternoon’s football. You could see who the winners were, a team of African lads were warming up, no lunch or aperos for them. They were passing the ball about and showing off their individual skills while the French lads were enjoying their Bank Holiday. The African lads who no doubt will appear in the Premier League one day wiped the floor with their white opposition, but it was all in good fun.
The whole football experience was quite exhausting, whiskey diluted with ice cubes attentively replenished by Gerard, Madame P’s brother in law, who was one of the competition organizers, the barbecue firing out al sorts of tasty bits washed dow by pastis and local beer. Jeremy’s team were great guys and stood the pressure well ably aided by their girlfriends who ate and drank what the boys could not finish and we the toast of the team because we were Irish. I did not like to disavow them. We returned once more for a well earned siesta and then a game of snooker that made me think I had forgotten more about the game than I had ever learnt but I still beat mine host. The evening meal was a simple affair of meat loaf prepared by ourselves, mashed potato configured by R and washed down by bottles of Bordeaux rose and rouge.
Day 3 was Wednesday and a day off school for the kids but not the musicians. Late morning we tootle off to the Medoc and spend time in Margaux, too pricey for our pockets so we retire to the little town of Macau on the Garonne where we lunch in a splendid restaurant renminiscent of France long ago. We had a three course meal with half a litre of wine each for 12 euro, excellent value. It was now touching 26C so home James, stopping off at a massive LeClerc supermarket in St Medard. This was the biggest store I was ever in with an unbelievable display of wines from Bordeaux and half a shelf of Vins Etrangeres. The poisonnerie was incroyable, if that is how you spell it, with every known fish and a few more on display. I could still be at the boucherie if let. The French cuts look so much nicer than our own.
Home to pintade and peas. I was given the honour of cutting off its head before it went into the pot. Monsieur Gerard came round, so six of us sat down for dinner. After numerous aperos, vino by the litre and digestifs to fill a distillery, the piano cranked up and Helen started the ball rolling followed by Madame on the keys giving it Killarney. Jeremy who is big into jazz piano and Gerard who is a Charles Aznavour look alike and devotee finished off the evening in style. Plans were made for a similar meeting in Boyle in September after the vintage. I was told in no uncertain French to look out for Roscommon ladies with similar dispositions to Gerard And Jeremy before I slipped off my stool about eight hours after I had first sat on it.
I woke at nine with a splitting head but after cafe and petite dejeuner, I was fit enough for a hectic return game of snooker, a very small apero and the thought of lunch which is to be bread, boudin noir et pommes. It is 11.30am and the temperature 29.5C in the cool interior, God knows what it must be outside. Our plane is scheduled for4.10pm by which time it had reached 35C and I am not looking forward to the journey. Off the plane in shirt sleeves in Dublin to a freezing 10C and by the time we made it home to Boyle it was a festering 7C. How clever we are to pick the Arctic to live in.